Into a large bowl, grate half the ginger, and zest the lemon. Then add the garlic, cilantro, 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil, half the lemon's juice, a tablespoon of yogurt, salt, and pepper. Stir, add chicken to bowl, and set aside to marinate.
While the meat is marinating, heat the remaining oil in a heavy, large skillet over low heat. Roughly chop the remaining ginger and add it to the oil with the onion. Cook gently for 10-15 minutes until falling apart and caramelized. Add the spices and stir well to combine. Cook for an additional 2-3 minutes to marry the flavors. Season with a good pinch of salt, then scrape into a bowl and reserve.
Increase the heat to medium-high and add the chicken pieces. Cook, turning occasionally, until brown and cooked through, but still tender. Return the onion mixture to the skillet, and add the cream if using, or the flour then yogurt. Stir in the tomato paste and simmer for 5 minutes.
Check for seasoning, adding salt or lemon juice as needed. Serve with basmati rice or naan.
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